Sunday, 10 November 2013

Art Deco Jabot pins, amongst most versatile pieces of jewellery

Cartier, Art Deco Onix and diamond jabot pin
Art Deco Onix and Diamond Jabot pins

The brooch above was made by Cartier in the 1920's and it is set in a typical combination of black onix and diamonds on platinum. The design is very unusual with the top end featuring a long fringe or tassel with cascading large rose cut diamonds. It is part of the upcoming Hong Kong Christie's auction on November 26th.
At the risk of turning it into a bit of an obsession, I find Art Deco monocrome combination fascinating!.

Art Deco Onix and diamond Jabot Pin at Macklowe Gallery, NY

Jabot pins are a particular type of brooch. Their main characteristic is that they are usually made out of one large pin which has adornments on both ends, the lower one normally being detachable so that it can be fastened. This way, when the brooch is worn on a garment, the pin is invisible leaving the two ornaments as if floating. Jabot pins get their name from a ruffle used by men and women to decorate shirts on the front and dates back to the seventeenth century. The pins became a piece of jewellery in the Art Deco period, since their elongated geometric shape (and symmetry in many occasions) suited the style to perfection. They were worn as brooches in multiple ways and even on hats and handbags. The variety of Art Deco designs for this type of brooches in inmense, and they are undoubtedly one of the most versatile pieces of jewellery.

Rarely worn today, these pieces are a collection's theme on their own. Like necessaire cases and minaudieres, each surviving original piece is unique and worth to be treasured.

Art Deco Jabot pin set with opals, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds