Wednesday, 9 October 2013

An extraordinary Art Deco aquamarine and tourmaline brooch by CARTIER

Cartier, Ar Deco Brooch set in Aquamarine and Tourmaline stones

This is an extremely rare piece. One of those record breaking-to-be-remembered ones. An extraordinarily rare Art Deco brooch signed by Cartier and set with tourmalines and aquamarines in an extravagantly curved geometric design. It is mounted in platinum accentuated with black enamel.

Although none of Cartier’s designers were noted individually as the firm’s policy was to promote the Cartier name singularly, the history of the firm would not be complete without acknowledging the influence and brilliance of their chief designer Charles Jacqueau. While many of the Cartier design archives are unsigned and difficult to attribute, a number of Jacqueau’s designs have survived, descended from his personal collection. He joined the firm as a young artist in 1909 and is credited with creating some of the most innovative and artful pieces of the teens and twenties. Taking design inspiration from numerous decorative motifs originating in Egypt, Islam, India, China and Japan, Jacqueau’s interests and inspirations were eclectic and original. acqueau found inspiration during his various travels to Italy, Russia, Morocco and Spain as well as closer to home in the varied exhibits at the Louvre, and the striking costumes, colors and movement of the Ballets Russes, particularly their use of the vibrant combination of blue and green. Jacqueau was instrumental in setting up Department S (S for silver) with Louis. The department was established between the wars, expanding on their remarkable range of luxury objects, such as elaborate desk accessories, cigarette and vanity cases, by creating still beautiful but relatively affordable functional objects. This echoed Jacqueau’s design ethos that less expensive materials such as coral and agate could be used in the same design with the most expensive gems such as diamonds and emeralds and that great design could be exemplified in setting off a priceless stone with a simple silken cord.

It will be auctioned by Christie's New York on October 15th, definitely one to watch!.