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Sunday, 15 September 2013

A very rare CARTIER Art Deco seed pearl tassel shoulder brooch

This is an extraordinary piece made by Cartier c. 1922-23, probably designed by Charles Jacqueau. It gathers all the elements characteristic of early Art Deco style. It incorporates semi precious stones like onix and coral in a very fine platinum and diamonds setting. I love seed pearl tassels for their movement and delicate feeling and this one is a truly remarkable example.

"Although it is difficult to attribute surviving Cartier jewels to particular designers because of Cartier's policy of anonymity, we do know that Cartier's designer Charles Jacqueau (1885-1968) pioneered the firm's Art Deco style. From the First World War, Jacqueau, inspired by motifs taken from the Ballets Russes, the Gazette du Bon Ton and Egyptian, Assyrian, Persian, Indian, Islamic, Japanese, Greek and Chinese civilisations, designed elegant jewels that gave the impression of floating on air. His instruction to the workshops advised "surtout très léger" (above all very light). This delicate brooch is a lesson in masterly workmanship and understated elegance. The deceptively simple fusion of linear-geometric decorative motifs with bold colour combinations, the juxtaposition of precious and semi-precious gems and the numerous cuts and shapes of stones set into the variously shaped platinum component parts are the hallmarks of Jacqueau's vision and of Cartier's innovative Art Deco designs. "



It will be auctioned by Bonham's in New Bond Street, London on Wednesday, September 18th. I will not be surprised to see this piece beat several times the estimate, like other similar Cartier Deco singular pendants.