|Cartier Pendant/Brooch Panther watch 1915|
Onix was used since the beginning of the Twentieth Century and it became one of Cartier's favourite gemstones. It was very useful to enhance the diamonds as well as the piece's geometrical design. In 1914 appeared one of the most iconic designs by Cartier, the "panther skin" set in diamonds and onix. During that period and until the early thirties, rock crystal also became one of Cartier's favourite materials.
|Cartier, cigarette case, 1930|
Cartier created the basics of the Art Deco style before the First World War. The term and the style would be properly acknowledged after the International Exhibition of Decorative Arts took place in Paris in 1925. The most pure geometrical shapes and patterns were restricted to some objects like cigarette cases and some brooches.
|Cartier, Pyramid clip brooch, 1935|
Towards the end of the 1920's, the height of the Art Deco style brought back platinum and diamonds in a new type of "white jewellery" reminiscent of the one at the beginning of the century. Daring cuts were introduced, like the baguette, which suit the geometrical trend in Art deco perfectly. The pieces were first designed as flat and two dimensional and towards the 1930's they started to acquire volume.