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Wednesday, 5 September 2012

A SCHLUMBERGER coloured fish brooch


Undoubtedly, one of the most accomplished jewellers that Tiffany has ever employed was Jean Schlumberger. In a similar fashion to Verdura with Chanel, he started his career designing costume pieces for Elsa Schiaparelli before moving onto fine jewellery. Having been born on the same day, he is one of my favourite masters; his initial passion was drawing but his family tried to convince him to become a banker and he did, but lasted only a year. When he joined Tiffany's in the mid sixties, Jean designed the famous "Tiffany Diamond setting" and was given total freedom to produce his colourful and original ideas. Elisabeth Taylor was one of his fans (together with Jackie Onassis, the Duchess of Windsor or Audrey Hepburn) and the brooch above reminds of the all diamond one that she wore for the Night of the Iguana. This one is set in yellow gold with pink sapphires and green tourmalines with two cabochon blue sapphires and a coral straw. It will be auctioned by Sotheby's New York on September 20th.