Tuesday, 28 February 2012

UPCOMING AUCTION: Jewels from the personal collection of Suzanne Belperron

Suzanne Belperron created some of the best pieces sold by the Maison Boivin for whom she worked between 1921 and 1931. Her contribution to jewellery is on par to Jeanne Toussaint's for Cartier. Two female names that are must study for any collector of Art Deco jewellery. It is striking how women made it further in the first half of the twentieth century than nowadays!

"The personal jewellery collection of arguably the most important female jewellery designer of the 20th century, Suzanne Belperron (1900-1983), will be sold in Sotheby's Geneva on the 15th of May 2012. Comprising over 50 lots, this unprecedented sale features the most significant group of jewels by Belperron ever to appear on the market. This collection includes some of her most celebrated designs and also very intimate items which illustrate her unique style and creative virtuosity."

Read women who paved the way by the JewelleryLoupe

Sunday, 26 February 2012

Discovery: Jack DU ROSE, the best kept secret

Jack Du Rose has been creating fine jewellery behind the scenes all his career. He was one of the artists selected to work on Damien Hirst's "For the Love of God" famous diamond skull. He may have avoided spotlight but his pieces definitely have not for he has designed special collections for the likes of Stephen Webster and Shaun Leane. Jack rarely designs pieces under his name and they are always sold privately, however he is now launching a collection of eight unique jewels that we had had the privilege to review.

Haute Jewellery is increasingly finding its way into fine art, and galleries are starting to feature exhibitions of one of a kind pieces that go a long way beyond the value of the stones or the fine craftsmanship. These jewels are sculptures that one can wear as well as display and there is profound meaning and artistic concept behind each one of them.

Du Rose "Danger" collection represents the danger we experience in life and the stones and materials have been chosen taking into account aesthetics, symbolism, perception and physical properties. Each piece is designed to be worn and to be displayed and they come in bell shaped glass jars that are kept inside a rose gold and ebony case. The case is locked with an elaborate golden key set in diamonds that can also be worn as a pendant. Another symbol to recognise the initiated in this new Art!.

Thursday, 16 February 2012

Lucien GAILLARD: Master Art Nouveau Insect jewellery

Probably the most famous pieces by Lucien Gaillard are his horn made hair pins featuring two intricate dragonflies exquisitely enamelled. Less famous than his Art Nouveau contemporaries Lalique, Fouquet or Vever his best pieces reach the same level of creativity and master craftsmanship. Lucien was the third generation of a Paris family of jewellers that had become known for their japanese inspired metalwork and Lucien's creations transpire the same influence. He has become famous for incorporating horn into his extremely delicate creations. Unfortunately he made very grew pieces and on the rare occasions when one becomes available the prices are astronomical. A few examples of his work can be found today at the Museum D'Orsay in Paris and at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.

FEATURED BOOK: Collect Contemporary Jewellery

A must read for collectors! Written by Joanna Hardy; this recently published book thoroughly explains how to find the contemporary pieces that will be the "antiques" of tomorrow. Fresh but incredibly high quality pieces selected by one of the most renowned international authorities in jewellery. To me, this is a text book and I am really proud that I was able to spot a couple of them in the discoveries section, but who could have missed Bicakci?...

Wednesday, 15 February 2012

The Liz Taylor Diamond MASK

It was designed and made in 1993 by Henry Dunay for Elisabeth Taylor. They called it the "Lachrymosa" referring to the sadness that AIDS brought to them. The piece was auctioned to benefit the American Foundation for AIDS research. It is set with over 130 carats of diamonds in platinum and gold. Undoubtedly one of the most extravagant pieces of contemporary jewellery that one can find nowadays. It is for sale at Windsor Jewellers in NY for $3 million!.