Friday, 10 December 2010

RENE BOIVIN: an early Retro bombe diamond ring

Rene Boivin was undoubtedly one of great french jewellery masters in the beginning of the 20th century. He was a great designer and craftsman but more interestingly, he was the first pioneer in linking jewellery to fashion. Rene Boivin married Jeanne Poiret who was the sister of the famous couturier and soon his wife became the first jeweller woman known in modern history. When he died in 1917, his wife took over running the company with their daughter and a friend, Juliette Moutard; three women!. In 1921 they hired Suzanne Belperron as a designer who worked with them until 1932. Today the firm belongs to Asprey.

This ring was made in 1935, at the height of creativity of the Boivin women team. The design is exceptional when one thinks about the dates; in the middle of the purest Art Deco trend, with geometrical patterns, platinum and white gold jewellery and abstract design (which Boivin mastered as well), they had the vision to hint what would be the icon piece of the following decade: the cocktail ring. This is not an important piece but its impeccable manufacture is remarkable. A bombe design, well matched diamonds and most importantly the open work design for the settings that allow the stones "breathe".

I just found this ring for sale at Hanock's, London.